How to Deal With Dark Circles on Dark Skin

We don’t talk nearly enough about dark circles being one of the most uncouth, disrespectful beauty struggles, even more than split ends and bunions. To just show up, uninvited, and sit in the most visible region of your face is honestly giving colonizer energy. Fortunately, because those obnoxious rings of hyperpigmentation have been irking our nerves for centuries, experts have had plenty of time to figure out effective treatment options. We tapped a few heavyweight dermatologists and makeup artists to shed some light on treating dark undereye circles, specifically for deeper skin tones.

• Rawn Bosley, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and fellowship-trained dermatologic surgeon based in Texas.
• Dara Spearman, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in Fort Wayne, Indiana.
• Alexandra Butler is a makeup artist based in Atlanta, Georgia.
• Keita Moore is a makeup artist based in New York, New York.

• What causes dark circles?
• How to treat dark circles with dermatologist support
• How to treat dark circles with skin care
• How to cover up dark circles with makeup

Board-certified dermatologist Rawn Bosley, MD, identifies four main categories that can bring about dark circles: inflammation (caused by allergies, eczema, illness, etc.), environmental or extrinsic factors (like excessive sun exposure or sleep deprivation), genetics, and natural aging. Determining the best treatment will ultimately depend on the cause and severity. Dr. Bosley says that darker skin tones are more prone to that first category, specifically, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. That’s theoretically good news, because it means if you treat the underlying condition, you’re likely to minimize the appearance of those pesky circles, too.

However, it’s not always as straightforward as popping a Benadryl. There is often overlap in what causes shadows under your eyes, explains Dr. Bosley. “Dark circles from extrinsic factors or underlying inflammation should be the most straightforward to manage with topical treatments, as one may assume if you prevent the cause, you can reduce the effect,” he says. “However, intrinsic factors such as your genetics and natural aging often complicate the process.”

To increase your chances of seeing improvement, Dr. Bosley recommends combining both topical treatments and in-office procedures, as a doctor can more precisely identify the cause and best treatment for all types of dark circles. “For an ideal correction of dark circles, we typically aim to not only correct pigment, but to improve skin quality and restore areas lacking volume to reduce shadowing,” Dr. Bosley says.

Dara Spearman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and owner of Radiant Dermatology Associates in Fort Wayne, Indiana​​, tells Allure that microneedling, chemical peels, laser therapy, and other in-office procedures can be used to “help improve the skin and its texture,” which is especially helpful when dark circles are the result of eczema or a condition that causes someone to chronically rub their eyes, which can lead to a “thickened texture” under the eyes. Your dermatologist will be able to recommend the ideal treatment plan for you and your dark circles, which might also include putting in some skin-care work at home.

When it comes to skin care that can help with dark circles, Dr. Spearman suggests “products that contain retinol, vitamin C, niacinamide, and caffeine, as these ingredients can lighten pigmentation, boost collagen production, and reduce irritation and inflammation.” You don’t necessarily need to find an eye cream with all four. All of these ingredients have some degree of lightening or brightening benefits, so look for products that contain at least one of them.

That said, Dr. Spearman finds that products formulated to address multiple undereye concerns work best, as they target pigment from different vantage points. (The cause of your undereye shadows is likely multi-faceted, after all. Dr. Spearman says The Ordinary’s Caffeine Solution 5% + EGCG is formulated to reduce puffiness and dark circles by providing antioxidant protection and improving circulation. For options that tackle multiple eye area concerns, Bosley recommends Revision Skincare's DEJ Eye Cream or Clinique All About Eyes Brightening Serum.

While creams and microneedling can effectively minimize dark circles, the results are rarely instant. The power of makeup, however, can completely mask discoloration while you wait for the skin-care products to do their thing. Atlanta-based makeup artist Alexandra Butler, who’s done glam for Missy Elliott and Africa Miranda, hydrates her clients’ undereyes with Peter Thomas Roth Water Drench Eye Patches. Any type of hydrating product will help your makeup application go more smoothly, but these have the added benefit of arnica, which can help minimize puffiness and soothe the skin.

Butler then color corrects stressed, darkened skin under the eye for a temporary but immediate fix. “Use an orange-toned color corrector to cancel out the blue in the dark circle,” she says. “Orange and blue are complementary, according to the color wheel, so the orange undertone will completely cancel out the hyperpigmentation.” Typically, you’d reach for an orange corrector if you have medium to dark skin, while red is more suitable for dark to rich skin.

Makeup artist Keita Moore is also an advocate of color correcting. “The darker the skin tone, the deeper the orange or red should be,” he says. “The key is choosing a lightweight, blendable corrector to avoid heaviness.” After the color corrector, he applies a lightweight but full-coverage concealer that matches the client’s skin tone or is a half-shade lighter. Moore, whose client roster includes rich brown beauties like Iman Bowie and Ayo Edebiri, opts for RCMA 5 Series Adjuster Palette because its cream formula can be mixed and customized to create the perfect corrector and concealer shades. For less severe dark circles, he recommends Tarte’s Shape Tape Corrector in the shade Orange. To lock the look in, he notes that you can prevent creasing or movement by setting the undereyes with “a finely-milled translucent or skin-toned setting powder.” He recommends Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Setting Powder and Fenty Beauty Pro Filt'r Soft Matte Longwear Powder Foundation.

Now, I don’t get prominent dark circles often, but my chin is visibly darker than the rest of my face. I took Moore’s suggestion and applied the orange Tarte Shape Tape Corrector sparingly under my eyes and to a pimple scab between my brows, and I swiped even more on my chin area. (I figured if it worked on a large area like my chin, surely it’d work the next time I woke up looking like Meeko from Pocohontas.)

I was slightly intimidated to use the product, as I’m not all that experienced with color corrector. But I followed the tips just as the pro instructed. Moore’s method was simple and, most importantly, effective. My complexion looked radiant and even, especially once I applied the rest of my everyday makeup.

It’s comforting to know that there are procedures, products, and tricks that work to combat dark circles on dark skin tones. However, the less we have to rely on any of it, of course, the easier and quicker our beauty routines become. To prevent dark circles from forming or worsening, Dr. Spearman recommends prioritizing seven to nine hours of sleep every night. “Maintaining a healthy diet rich in nutrients can support skin health and improve circulation throughout the body,” she adds. “Improving blood flow through exercising or massaging your body is important.” And all of our experts stress the importance of using sunscreen to prevent hyperpigmentation.

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