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Some things are worth sacrificing for a great hairstyle. Your edges are not one of them. Six-plus hours in a salon chair and a couple of hundred dollars are the upfront costs for a trendy protective style that will last you weeks and cut down your hair routine. However, compromising the health of your hair is a hidden price that many Black women pay for these looks. This is a lesson I’ve had to learn the hard way after years of wearing box braids, twists, and wigs. It’s all great when you’re posting a selfie with your new boho braids, until you notice panic-inducing bald spots around your edges.
Don’t get me wrong, protective styles have plenty of pros. They’re a great way to switch up your look while keeping your strands protected from chemical and heat exhaustion. However, the tension these styles can put on your hair and scalp can, over time, cause major hair loss known as traction alopecia. “Traction alopecia is caused by anything that pulls on the hair, ultimately damaging the root and can lead to scarring and permanent hair loss,” board-certified dermatologist Doris Day, MD, previously told Allure. “It's a process that usually takes years.” Traction alopecia is “reversible when early corrective measures are taken,” says board-certified dermatologist and Curology medical director Whitney Tolpinrud, MD.
In addition to this gradual hair loss, an itchy scalp can be a more immediate side effect to wearing protective styles. Experts say this unpleasant feeling can be caused by irritation from synthetic extensions, dryness from lack of moisture, and product build-up. All of this might have you vowing to swear off protective styles for good, but don't cancel your next braid appointment just yet: There are a few ways to continue wearing your favorite looks without compromising your hair and scalp health.
Meet the experts:
- Erica Legagneur is a New York City-based hairstylist.
- Shanna St. Cyr is a New York City- based braider.
- Evie Johnson is a certified trichologist and Mizani artist and educator.
- Diane Bailey is a New York City-based hairstylist.
- Felicia Leatherwood is a Los Angeles-based hairstylist.
- Pekela Riley is a hairstylist and owner of Salon PK in Jacksonville, Florida.
- Whitney Tolpinrud, MD, is a San Diego-based board-certified dermatologist.
- Patricia Oyetakin, MD, is a Atlanta-based board-certified dermatologist.
- Naana Boakye, MD is a New Jersey-based board-certified dermatologist.
In this story:
- Avoid a tight grip
- Skip extra-long braids, twists, or faux locs
- Use plant-based or human hair extensions
- Avoid updos that cause tension
- Hydrate and moisturize your scalp
- Consider washing your protective style
- Don’t go past the expiration date
Avoid a tight grip
Let’s start at the root. It's a common belief that the tighter the braids, the longer the style will last. While that may have some truth, all of that tension is no good for your scalp. “First line treatment of traction alopecia is avoidance of traction-causing hairstyles,” says Dr. Tolpinrud. The tension from tight styles can also cause red, inflamed bumps — not to mention, it’s painful. If your stylist is plaiting your hair too tightly, be vocal and ask them to ease up.
Braided styles like cornrows require a bit more tension to get them to lay flat on the scalp, so opt for these looks sparingly. If you love the look of neat flat braids, try flat twists — they give you the same vibe but the two-strand twist is gentler on your scalp because it doesn’t lay as flat on the scalp.
If box braids are your go-to, try knotless box braids, which don’t require such a tight grip on your scalp to fuse the braiding hair with your natural hair. “With the knotless technique I start the braids off with the client’s natural hair then you start adding hair as you go,” says New York City-based braider Shanna St.Cyr. “This means there’s no need to grip tightly on the hair to secure the extensions at the base like with traditional box braids.”
Skip extra-long braids, twists, or faux locs
I love the look of long buss down braids as much as the next person, but long braids can be heavy, which causes more tugging on your scalp, especially as they grow out. If you’re inclined to Rapunzel-length braids, try not to get them too often and definitely don’t wear them past three weeks. A greatest litmus test is to tilt your head to the side and see if you feel any tugging — if you do, it may be time to take those braids out.
Use plant-based or human hair extensions
Hair extensions used for protective styles are often made of synthetic fibers that can irritate the scalp, causing it to become itchy and inflamed. To avoid an allergic reaction to the faux extensions, have your stylist use 100 percent human hair or plant-based hair extensions which tend to be better for sensitive skin. Brands like Rebundle offer a wide variety of hair braiding extensions made from plant-based fibers that don’t contain the synthetic coatings that traditional Kanekalon have.
If you have synthetic braiding hair on hand that you want to make use of, try giving the hair an apple cider vinegar bath. “Immerse the Kanekalon hair in a large basin and add three parts hot water to one part apple cider vinegar, then let it soak for 15 to 20 minutes,” says New York City-based hairstylist Erica Legagneur. “Rinse thoroughly and let the hair air dry. This will remove the synthetic coating from the hair as well as soften the hair.”
Avoid updos that cause tension
“There is already a certain amount of tension associated with protective styles like box braids and faux locs, and constantly pulling them up or tightening them can cause a lot of scalp damage,” says certified trichologist and Mizani artist and educator Evie Johnson. The higher up the hair is gathered on your head, the tighter it pulls at the base of the braids causing tension on the scalp. So, if you’re a fan of ponytails and buns, opt for low hanging iterations of this style. Also, “make sure to let your updo down at the end of the day to help relieve the scalp,” says Johnson.
To be even more precocious, just leave your hair down. Try different parts if you want to add some variety to your look.
Hydrate and moisturize your scalp
It’s easy to neglect scalp care when you have a protective style but this can lead to a dry and itchy scalp. “Remember your scalp is also part of your skin and wants to be moisturized at all times,” says Atlanta-based board-certified dermatologist Patricia Oyetakin, MD. “Braids may exacerbate scalp dryness so spray moisturizers and leave-ins can help access the scalp better.”
The derm recommends looking for products with glycerin (a well-known humectant that pulls in moisture and retains it) and jojoba oil (a nutrient powerhouse made with fatty acids that mimic natural oils and not only provide moisture but also have antimicrobial properties). If you're dealing with an itchy scalp, Dr. Oyetakin says tea tree oil, peppermint oil, and aloe are ingredients that can aid in soothing scalp irritation — the derm recommends the Pharm To Table Scalp Relief Tea Tree Leave-In Conditioner and Camille Rose Mint Condition Spray.
Dermatologists recommend spritzing your scalp every four to seven days when your hair is in a protective style. "You will also need to factor in sweating, climate, and scalp concerns," says Dr. Oyetakin. "Spraying too often may lead to scalp buildup and flaking while not spraying enough can lead to dryness and breakage, so pay attention to how your scalp feels and adjust accordingly."
Consider washing your protective style
The gel used to install protective styles and the products you use to moisturize the hair and scalp can lead to buildup overtime so it’s important to cleanse the scalp. (On that note, it’s OK to ask your braider to ease up on the amount of gel they use when braiding your hair or opt for no gel at all if possible.)
Dr. Tolpinrud suggests using a shampoo with ketoconazole, selenium sulfide, or zinc pyrithione, which are great for clarifying the scalp, like the Mizani Scalp Care Anti-Dandruff Shampoo. An apple cider vinegar cleanser like R+CO Lost Treasure Apple Cider Cleansing Rinse can also help clarify the scalp while you have your protective style in. Los Angeles-based hairstylist Felicia Leatherwood suggests applying the cleanser directly to the scalp and gently massaging it in before adding water, to ensure that the scalp is clean and exfoliated while keeping your extensions neat and fuzz-free. Once you are done, rinse thoroughly and make sure to dry as soon as possible (preferably with a blow dryer) so the hair doesn’t sit wet for too long.
Understandably some protective style wearers are afraid that washing their hair will loosen the style, causing it to frizz up. If this is a concern, try spot cleaning instead — it’s a great way to cleanse and relieve an itchy scalp without fully immersing your hair in water and compromising the style. Hairstylist and owner of Salon PK Pekela Riley, suggests dipping a Q-tip or cotton ball into an apple cider vinegar rinse (she likes the Creme of Nature Argan Oil Apple Cider Vinegar Clarifying Rinse), then lightly dab on affected areas to dissolve any buildup and soothe the itchies. “Squeeze the Q-tip between the braids in between the scalp to attract the oil molecules contributing to the buildup. Your hair will also feel really soft because of the low pH of the ACV. Follow up with water to remove,” says Riley. “This can hold you over until you can do a full shampoo.” Board-certified dermatologist Naana Boakye, MD, says you should be "cleansing the scalp at least once a week to remove product buildup and to allow the scalp to breathe." Spot cleansing can count here — to a point. You'll need to give your hair a full wash after four weeks max.
Don't go past the expiration date
Eight weeks should be the longest you go before removing your protective style. “After about two months, the hair will have new growth and may cause tangling and twisting,” says Bailey.
Experts also warn against getting protective styles back to back. Even when done gently, “repeated tension on the hair root [from protective styles] can lead to mechanical damage, hair loss, and shortening of hairs,” says Dr. Tolpinrud. There’s no scientifically proven ideal waiting time, but stylists recommend three weeks to a month between protective styles.
Protective styles we love:
- Here’s Proof That Box Braids Are the Most Versatile Protective Style
- Boho Braids Are TikTok's Favorite Protective Hairstyle
- Protective Styles Are the Armor Black Women Have Worn for Centuries
100 Years of Black Hair:
