This Is the Simplest Way to Figure Out Your Curl Type

Most people with textured hair have more than one pattern on their head, "so you may have a combination of, say, kinky, coily, wavy, and curly," adds François. And FYI, identifying your curl shape and pattern(s) is best determined while your hair is sopping wet.

A simple breakdown: Type 1s are straight, Type 2s are wavy, Type 3s are curly, and Type 4s are coily. Easy enough, right?

The sub-classifications of A to C are based on the width or diameter of your wave, curl, or coil. Type As have a wider pattern size, Type Bs medium, and Type Cs the smallest of the three. "The real beauty of identifying your hair type is that you're better at understanding how to care for your texture so you can have more versatility," explains curl-wizard Anthony Dickey.

In this story

• Type 2 Hair
• Type 3 Hair
• Type 4 Hair

Type 2 waves are fluid, can be fine to coarse, and have a signature “S” pattern that hangs closer to the head. This hair type “takes the most amount of time and work to form a curl,” says Brooklyn-based hairstylist Jonathan Matais-Bernard.

2A hair has a subtle, barely-there texture that's straightforward to straighten. People with this texture should be wary of using heavy styling products that can easily weigh strands down, making hair look limp. If that sounds like you, Matais-Bernard recommends opting for lightweight products that still offer "a lot of hold."

To get the job done, he likes the Davines Curl Moisturizing Mousse. "It gives the perfect balance of hold and weightlessness," says the stylist.

Because type 2A waves tend to lack volume at the roots, Dickey recommends using an airy, water-based mousse, like the Aveda Phomollient Styling Foam, to add a bit of oomph at the base.

Yes, you should brush thick 2A hair, but there's a right way to do it. Miami-based hairstylist Michelle O'Connor advises 2A'ers to avoid brushing hair when it's dry and instead reach for a wide-tooth comb or a Wet Brush on damp hair for minimized-snag detangling. Sabrina Porsche, a Los Angeles-based hair stylist, recommends prepping with a bit of leave-in conditioner before busting out your brush. "A leave-in usually acts as a detangler, so it will help glide the brush through the hair for easy brushing," she says. That extra slip can go a long way.

People with thick 2A hair should find a brush that tackles tangles without the ouch factor. Temur Hamilton, a hairstylist and salon owner in NYC, swears by brushes with flexible bristles, like nylon or boar. “These types of brushes are gentle, effective for detangling, and distribute product evenly while reducing frizz and breakage,” he tells Allure. He added that wide-tooth combs are also great for keeping uncomfy knots at bay.

2B girlies have hair that lies flatter at the crown and defined “S” waves beginning from mid-lengths. Their strands are thicker than 2A’ers and require more elbow grease to get hair pin-straight (heat-protectant, please).

To enhance your surfer-babe waves, use a texturizing mist like the Ouai Wave Spray, enriched with rice protein. Ceremonia’s Guava Beach Waves Hair Texturizing Spray is another great option for moisturizing and amping your natural waves without the weight.

“The struggle with Type 2 curls is longevity, so I always recommend diffusing for maximum volume and hold for curls that tend to flatten throughout the day,” says Matais-Bernard. We love the Curlsmith Defrizzion Travel Hair Dryer & Diffuser because it’s excellent at cutting down on frizz and has a large surface area for tackling all your hair at once.

"Scrunch [2B hair] with a lightweight mousse or curl cream and air-dry or diffuse," says O'Connor. "Diffusing is an instant option, especially in winter months or when you don't have all day to dry your hair, and when done on a low speed with low heat, your hair can still maintain maximum health," she adds.

O’Connor explains that sulfate-free, moisturizing shampoos are key for keeping 2B frizz in check. NYC-based hair stylist Cheryl Bergamy agrees, urging her clients to keep an eye out for ingredients like coconut oil, which “penetrates deep into the hair shaft to strengthen and provide lasting moisture, helping to prevent breakage,” and avocado oil, because it’s “packed with vitamins (like A, D, and E) and fatty acids to nourish hair, add shine, and improve softness.” The right shampoo can make all the difference in keeping those waves smooth and spotlit.

2C waves are thicker and more susceptible to frizz, with more definition in the “S”-bends that begin at the root. Between shampoos, 2C’ers can opt for a non-lathering, sulfate-free co-wash to avoid stripping essential moisture from strands.

Dickey also recommends layering a leave-in conditioner under a mousse to lock in your natural wave pattern while adding hydration. We vouch for the Verb Curl Leave-In Conditioner and the Design Essentials Natural Almond & Avocado Curl Enhancing Mousse.

Before using a curling mousse on your 2C hair, make sure it's the right match for your pattern. "It's important you first identify your curl type, then find out what products are meant for you," hairstylist Irinel de León tells Allure. "This is so important because you could be using a product that's either too light or heavy for your curls which could either cause frizz, leave buildup, or leave your strands limp."

When it comes to mousse, technique matters. Massage the product into your towel-dried hair, starting at the roots and working down to the ends. Use a comb to detangle before flipping your head upside down and scrunching in the product with your fingers. From there, whip out your diffuser for a quick blow dry, or just chill, letting it air-dry—either way, you're set. "It's as much about the styling technique as it is about the formulation," adds cosmetic chemist Charlene Valledor.

Type 3 curly hair can range from loose, buoyant loops to tight, springy corkscrews with shine. Care practices for curlier girlies tend to be more comprehensive than those of wavier women.

3A strands tend to be shiny with broader, looser curls that have a diameter about the size of a piece of sidewalk chalk (TBT). To swiftly style 3A hair, work a dollop or two of curl cream or mousse (like the Best of Beauty Award-winning SGX NYC Curl Power Nourishing Curl Cream) into your damp hair, "raking it through with your hands from roots to ends, and scrunching out the excess water," explains Matais-Bernard. Doing so will help define the curls' texture and hydrate them in the process. Refrain from touching your hair after applying the products, or you'll risk sparking a frizz halo.

Spritz your hair with a curl refresher to maintain those bouncy coils, like the Carol's Daughter Hair Milk Nourishing & Conditioning Refresher Spray. This formula is lightweight, defining, and smells like yummy, sweet almonds.

"For 3A hair, hydration is key," says Latoya Moore, DevaCurl educator and owner of Elle Moore's Beauty in Brooklyn, New York City. "Use moisturizing products and leave-in conditioner regularly, and at night, use the 'pineapple' method, which is gathering hair into a loose high ponytail, to preserve curl shape and definition." O'Connor echoes Moore, emphasizing the importance of "hydrating shampoos, lightweight conditioners, and a leave-in cream to fight frizz."

Facts are facts: Different curl types have different wash needs. “3A hair should be washed one to two times a week because overwashing can strip essential oils, leading to frizzy, dry strands,” explains Moore. If your hair craves a refresh in between wash days, O’Connor suggests co-washing, the practice of cleansing with a conditioner or a shampoo alternative. However, co-washing shouldn’t be a replacement for traditional shampoo sudsing.

On The Science of Beauty, cosmetic chemist Erica Douglas explains that co-washing involves using conditioner instead of shampoo to cleanse and remove hair buildup. Douglas says that you can use the conditioner you already have in your shower (mixing in a tiny bit of shampoo if you’d like), or you can buy a pre-made co-wash product, which typically contains a small amount of cleansing agent.

3B hair is made up of springy ringlets with a circumference similar to that of a Sharpie marker. This texture trends dry, so stay stocked with curl gels formulated with hydration-locking humectants, like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, (familiar skin-care ingredients that serve similar functions), and aloe vera extract to attract moisture.

Give the glycerin-rich Mielle Organics Honey & Ginger Styling Gel or the Curls Goddess Botanical Gel, another hydrating and defining pick. Word to the wise: "Apply when [your hair is] wet, so you'll get definition without frizz," urges Dickey.

"The key to 3B hair is gentle handling, moisture, and using the right products to define and hydrate the curls," says Moore. "Detangle using a brush, your fingers, or a wide-tooth comb on damp hair to prevent breakage." She stresses the importance of trimming 3B hair every three to four months to nix split ends.

To style 3B hair, O'Connor recommends using a curl cream or gel on damp or wet hair before scrunching or diffusing to accentuate and hydrate curls. "It's 100% better to apply any styling product—cream, gel, and/or mousse—on soaking wet hair," Kiana Rae, curl specialist and owner of West Coast Curls in Los Angeles, tells Allure. "Curly hair is more prone to dryness, so we require so much water. Curl-friendly products are activated with water, so [they] won't weigh our hair down."

Type 3C

Type 3C curls resemble tight corkscrews with diameters comparable to straws or pencils. Strands are densely gathered, giving way to lots of natural volume. Frizziness is to be expected in 3C hair, so if you're trying to mitigate fluff and flyaways, reach for a sulfate-free, non-drying, creamy cleanser like the Oyin Handmade Ginger Mint Co-Wash. Dickey also likes layering a mousse (such as the 2020 Best of Beauty-winning Rucker Roots Texture Styling Mousse) over a styling cream (like the Eden BodyWorks Coconut Shea Curl Defining Creme) when the hair is sopping wet to allow curls to clump together and form faster. "Your co-wash reveals your curl pattern, while your styling product captures [it]," Dickey explains.

Coily hair, commonly referred to as Afro-textured or kinky hair, type 4 is naturally very dry and spongy in texture and can be soft and fine or coarse and wiry. Strands form very tight, small curls of zig-zags right from the scalp and are prone to major shrinkage.

People with Type 4A hair have dense, springy, "S"-pattern coils that are about the same circumference as a crochet needle. If this sounds like you, look to Yara Shahidi and Megan Thee Stallion's texture here for reference. Wash-and-gos are an easy way to style 4A curls. When doing so, Matais-Bernard recommends "keeping your detangling brush and sectioning clips handy" for extra ease. This styling method should be done more frequently to keep this coily texture soft and pliable.

A curl cream with a leave-in moisturizer is a must for adding more moisture to daily wash-and-go styling. A curl cream like Pattern's Styling Cream can be paired with a leave-in like SheaMoisture's Strengthen & Restore Leave-In Conditioner. This combination will help define your curls without leaving them hard or crunchy. Use a diffuser to dry and disperse your curls for an extra beautiful body.

According to O’Connor, protective styling and moisture are key for 4A girlies on their growth journey. Moore agrees, emphasizing that people looking to boost growth should "use low-manipulation styles that will help protect hair from breakage. Keep hair well-moisturized and deep condition once a week." She also recommends massaging the scalp to stimulate blood flow, which can support healthier, stronger growth.

People with 4A hair should wash "every seven days and clarify once a month to remove buildup. Avoid excessive heat styling to prevent heat damage." O'Connor seconded the power of clarifying shampoos. Since curls demand extra moisture, which is delivered through styling and hydrating products, residual buildup can be an issue. "The curl community is constantly putting elixirs, butters, gels, and creams on the hair," she tells Allure. "These things attract dust and pollutants from the air, and they can build up and be heavy on the hair. Every few weeks, a good clarifying shampoo will give your hair a fresh start along with your scalp," O'Connor suggested. "There are specially designed clarifying shampoos that are gentler and won't strip your curls."

Strands with the 4B pattern are densely packed and can bend in sharp angles like the letter "Z." "I love that [4B hair] can be shaped in many different ways," says François.

Dickey digs styling creams for 4B hair because they're thicker and conducive for palm-rolling (using your hands to roll your hair into locs or twists) or shingling (using product to manipulate individual curls with your fingers), two types of product distribution methods that stretch out coils and clump them for better texture definition and elongation.

Dryness associated with 4B hair can be attributed to the tautness of the tendrils. "Its tight pattern prevents natural oils from traveling down the hair shaft," explains O’Connor. Douglas added that this makes it especially important to apply moisture to the mid-lengths down to the ends.

To straighten 4B hair, O’Connor vouches for the tension method, a.k.a. gently holding sections of damp hair taut away from your face, and then using a blow-dryer to lock the sections into longer pieces. Once you’ve finished, you can go in with a flatiron on low heat to get the sleek effect that the blow-dryer alone won’t give. And, we beg you, don’t skip the heat protectant.

4C hair is similar to 4B, but these tightly coiled curls are more fragile and have a tighter zigzag pattern. This hair type experiences the most significant amount of shrinkage—about 75% or more—compared to the other textures. If you are a 4C, take your style cues from actress Kiki Layne. "I love that [this texture] is so versatile," says François.

Since shrinkage and dryness are major concerns for 4C'ers, Matais-Bernard recommends using a hair mask, like Mizani Moroccan Clay Steam Mask to "help soften and detangle while adding intense hydration to thirsty curls."

After washing, use a liberal amount of leave-in moisturizer, like the Bread Beauty Hair Cream, to supplement moisture. Castor oil is also a great hydrator and sealant for this dry texture; we like the Briogeo B. Well Cold-Pressed Castor Oil.

If you want a respite from the volume and density of your 4C hair, you may be tempted to thin out your tresses. The best way to do so is with a trip to the salon, O’Connor says, and to “opt for layering from a stylist to remove bulk while keeping volume.” Patronizing a salon that specializes in curls can be key, too. The “carve and slice” technique invented by Ouidad, a curl-only salon (and hair-care brand), is a favorite of stylist and salon owner Stevie Kennedy, who explains that the cut creates layers “to eliminate density and bulk.”

“The key to managing dry 4C hair is hydration,” explains Moore. “I recommend spritzing the hair daily with water and using a deep conditioner once a week to maintain moisture, avoiding harsh products containing sulfates or silicones that will dry the hair out. Trim when needed and sleep with a bonnet or silk scarf.” Douglas also mentioned that sleeping in a bonnet or on a silk pillowcase is preferable to cotton pillowcases that soak up vital hair moisture. The silk also causes less frizz-causing friction, which is always a plus.

More Allure-approved product recommendations that'll treat your ringlets right:

• These Diffusers Will Change Your Curly-Hair Routine For Good
• 13 Best Curl Creams for Equal Parts Hydration and Definition
• These Curl Shampoos Start Your Wash-Day Routine Right
• 11 Best Brushes for Curly Hair to Detangle and Define

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